HVAC Glossary

AFUE

• The measurement for heating efficiency is AFUE (Annual Fuel Utilization Efficiency), which ranges from 80% to 95% for new systems. The higher the AFUE, the more efficiently the system performs, the greater your energy savings.

Airflow

• The distribution or movement of air.

Air Handler Blower Fan

• The indoor part of an air conditioner or heat pump that moves cooled or heated air throughout the ductwork of your home. An air handler is usually a furnace or a blower coil.

Bio-aerosols

• Microscopic living organisms suspended in the air that grow and multiply in warm, humid places.

Btu

• A British thermal unit is a unit of heat energy. One Btu is the amount of heat required to raise one pound of water by one degree Fahrenheit. The higher the Btu rating, the greater the heating capacity of the system.

Btu/h

• British thermal units per hour.

CAE

• The Combined Annual Efficiency is a measure of the amount of heat produced for every dollar of fuel consumed for both home and water heating.

Carbon Monoxide

• An odorless, colorless, tasteless, poisonous and flammable gas that is produced when carbon burns with insufficient air.

Central Air Conditioning System

• System in which air is treated at a central location and distributed to and from rooms by one or more fans and a series of ducts.

CFM

• Stands for Cubic Feet per Minute. This measurement indicates how many cubic feet of air pass by a stationary point in one minute. The higher the number, the more air is being moved through the ductwork by the system.

Compressor

• The part of the outdoor air conditioner or heat pump that compresses and pumps refrigerant to meet household cooling requirements.

Condenser Coil

• The outdoor portion of an air conditioner or heat pump that either releases or collects heat, depending on the time of the year.

Condensate pump

• A small pump used to pump condensate to higher level. This unit is used when there is no drain on the floor.

Damper

• A movable plate, located in the ductwork, that regulates airflow. Dampers are used to direct air to the areas that need it most. Typically used in a zoning application.

dB

• A decibel is a unit used to measure the relative intensity of sound.

DC Motor

• A motor that operates on direct current (DC)

Ductless Air Conditioner

• See Mini-split System.

Ductwork

• The method by which air is channeled from the furnace or the blower coil throughout your home.

ECM

• Stands for Electronically Communicating Motors. This DC motor uses electronics to commutate the rotor instead of brushes. It is typically build for under 1 hp.

Electronic Air Cleaner

• An electronic device that filters out large particles and bio-aerosols in indoor air.

ENERGY STAR®

• An EPA (Environmental Protection Agency) which is an American organization and is responsible for designations attached to HVAC products that meet or exceed EPA guidelines for high-efficiency performance above the standard government minimums.

ERV

• Stands for Energy Recovery Ventilator. In winter, this ventilation equipment recovers heat and moisture from stale air. In summer, heat and moisture are removed from incoming air and transferred to stale air. 

Evaporator Coil

• The part of the air conditioner or heat pump that is located inside the air handler or attached to the furnace. Its primary function is to absorb the heat from the air in your house.

FAQ

• Stands for "frequently asked questions."

Heat Exchanger

• Located in the furnace, the heat exchanger transfers heat to the surrounding air, which is then pumped throughout the home.

Heat Pump

• A heat pump is an HVAC unit that heats or cools by moving heat. During the winter, a heat pump draws heat from outdoor air and circulates it through your home's air ducts. In the summer, it reverses the process and removes heat from your house and releases it outdoors.

Horizontal Flow

• When an air handler or furnace is positioned on its side and circulates air in one end and out the other. Ideal for attic or crawl space installations.

HRAI

• Heating Refrigeration & Air Conditioning Institute 

HRV

• Stand for Heat Recovery Ventilator. This unit recovers heat only, used primarily in winter.

HSPF

• The Heating Seasonal Performance Factor is the heating efficiency rating for heat pumps. The higher the rating, the more efficient the heat pump. HSPF will be regulated in 2006 at 7.7.

Humidifier

• An indoor air quality device that introduces moisture to heated air as it passes from the furnace into the ductwork for distribution throughout the home.

Humidistat

• An automatic device used to maintain humidity at a fixed or adjustable set point.

HVAC

• Heating, Ventilation and Air Conditioning.

Indoor Coil

• See Evaporator Coil.

ISO 9000

• A family of international standards for quality management and assurance.

MERV Rating

• The MERV (Minimum Efficiency Reporting Value) rating of a filter describes the size of the holes in the filter that allow air to pass through. The higher the MERV rating, the smaller the holes in the filter, the higher the efficiency. Filters MERV rating are from 1 to 20.

Micron

• A unit of measure equal to one millionth of a meter, or one thousandth of a millimeter.

Mini-split System

• A ductless air conditioning system that mounts in a single room, used to cool individual areas, particularly if a Window Unit is not desired or no windows are present.

Odors (Chemicals)

• Air contaminants in the form of gases.

Outdoor Coil

• See Condenser Coil.

Particles (Particulates)

• Any substances measuring less than 100 microns in diameter. The EPA has found that small particles (less than 2.5 microns) are responsible for the health effects of greatest concern.

Programmable Thermostat

• An electronic thermostat that can be set up to provide desired conditions at desired times.

R-410A Refrigerant

• A chlorine-free refrigerant that has been considered as a safe substitute for R-22 refrigerant. R-410A refrigerant considered as a environmentally friendly refrigerant.

Refrigerant

• The fluid in a refrigeration system that changes from liquid to a vapor and back to liquid at practical pressure. Most residential air conditioning units contain the standard R-22 refrigerant, or Freon.

Refrigerant Lines

• Two copper lines that connect the outdoor air conditioner or heat pump to the indoor evaporator coil.

Relative humidity (RH)

• The amount of moisture contained in the air as compared to the amount the air could hold at that tempreture. Perfect RH for home would be between 35% to 50%.

Scroll Compressor

• A specially designed compressor that works in a circular motion, as opposed to up-and-down piston action.

SEER

• The cooling performance of air conditioners and heat pumps is rated using the SEER (Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio) system, which ranges from 13.00 to 20.00 for new systems. The higher the SEER, the better the efficiency, the greater the energy savings.

Single Package

• A heating and cooling system contained in one outdoor unit.

Split System

• A HVAC system in which some components are located inside the structure of the house and some are located outside. Split systems should be matched for optimal efficiency.

Static pressure

• The bursting pressure or outward force in a duct system

Thermidistat

• Monitors temperature and humidity and adjusts heating or cooling system or zones to maintain desired levels.

Thermostat

• Usually found on an inside wall, this device operates as a control to regulate your heating and cooling equipment, allowing you to adjust your home comfort at the touch of a switch.

Ton of refrigerant

• The amount of heat required to melt a ton (2000 LB) of ice at 32° F in 24 hours.Also it considers as a unit of measurement for determining cooling capacity. One ton equals 12,000 Btuh.

Two-Stage Operation

• Provides two levels of heating or cooling output for greater temperature control, energy efficiency and improved indoor air quality.

TSSA

• Stands for Technical Standard and Safety Authority

Up-flow

• When an air handler or furnace is installed in an upright position and circulates air through the side or bottom and out through the top. Typically used in basement, closet and attic installations.

Variable Speed Motor

• A motor that automatically adjusts the flow of warm or cool air for ultimate comfort.

Ventilator (or Fresh Air Ventilator)

• A system that exchanges stale, recirculated indoor air with fresh, filtered outside air.

Window Unit (Air Conditioner)

• An air conditioner designed to be placed in the window, used for cooling individual rooms.

Zoning

• A method of partitioning a home into independently controlled comfort zones for enhanced comfort and efficiency.

  ---

Sizing Air Conditioner Systems Properly

When considering adding or replacing air conditioning or heating to your home, insist that the installing contractor "sizes" the system properly. A qualified contractor will not recommend equipment size based solely on the size of your home or assume that your existing equipment was sized properly in the first place. Be sure to also tell your contractor if you plan to renovate in the near future. Changing windows, upgrading insulation levels, finishing the basement, air-sealing or a new addition will impact the sizing calculation for any new system.

 To complete the design load calculation, the contractor will need to take measurements during the initial visit to your home and ask some questions. They also take into account:

• Local climate conditions
• Size and number of windows that let in heat from the sun
• Existing insulation levels of the home
• Number and lifestyle of your home's occupants
• Predicted or known air exchange rate of home

There is only one correct size of equipment for your home. Not only will a unit that is too big turn on and off more often, which is annoying but over-sizing equipment can result in increased fuel consumption and higher operating costs which is inefficient and can contribute to premature part failure, higher noise levels and reduced comfort (hot or cold spots within the home). You need just the right size! Under-sizing of equipment will also cause severe comfort problems. Ideally, the equipment should be designed within plus or minus 10% of the required size.

So hire a contractor that has the appropriate skills to perform a "heat loss and heat gain calculation" based on professional guidelines, to calculate the proper size of heating and cooling equipment that your home requires. A good estimate will take several hours. Do not agree to a simple "rule of thumb" calculation (e.g., X amount of BTUs per square foot). Be sure to request a 'heat loss and heat gain calculation' as part of your purchase process.

When a contractor completes the heat loss and heat-gain calculation and determines your needs, be sure to purchase the right equipment, and not stock that the contractor happens to have sitting on the truck or back at the shop.

There is a Canadian Standards Association (CSA) standard on how to properly size equipment. It is called "Determining the Required Capacity of Residential Space Heating and Cooling Appliances", CAN/CSA F280-M90 (1998). This standard is also referenced in building codes.

For more information on equipment options and tips to help make an informed decision, visit the information library at the Heating, Refrigeration and Air Conditioning Institute of Canada website.

 ^{Source: Heating Refrigeration and Air Conditioning Institute} 

Where is the driest place on earth?
Your house!!! The relative humidity (RH) of Death Valley is 25%. The RH of Sahara is 23%. The RH of a home in North America on a 10 ºF day, with forces air furnace blowing can be "SINGLE" digit!!! 

 Why do you get sick during winter than the rest of the year?

Because there are more germs? NO. There are fewer germs in the winter than during any other season. there are three ways to kill germs:

          1- Chemicals
          2- Heat
          3- Cold
When temperature outside is below ZERO all germs have been killed by the cold. Everything outdoors is sterile. 

What is the lowest-cost way to lower your heating bills?

When you are feeling chilly, check the indoor humidity level before raising your thermostat setting, raise the humidity level, and you'll feel more comfortable without increasing the heat. At 70°F for every 10% you increase the indoor relative humidity, you increase the "apparent temperature" approximately 1F. For every 1F that you reduce your thermostat setting, you save approximately 5% on your energy consumption. This means with proper humidification, consumers can save 20% to 30% or more on their heating costs on the days and nights of the winter. They can also be healthier and more comfortable, while extending the useful life of their home and furnishings.

Why do floors creak, wooden furniture fall apart, and wallpaper and curtains wear out, even though no one even touches them?

The answer is dry out. The lowest cost solution is proper humidification. A Whole House Humidifier is recommended for everyone with forced air furnace and :
          1- Wooden floors
          2- Wooden, leather or laminated furniture or counter tops
          3-  A piano or other wooden musical instruments
          4- Hanging tapestries or expensive rugs
          5- Sinus problems
          6- High heating bills
          7- Comfort complains
          8- Expensive electronics

Note: Dry air causes the static electricity shocks that we all experiencing during the winter. It's not myth that some people lose their hard drive on their computers from static charge. Humidifiers reduce the likelihood of that occurring.

Homepage | Humidifiers | Humifiers Water Pads | Generalaire1042

What is ecoEnergy Rebate Program? 

To help homeowners save energy, save money and reduce greenhouse gas emissions, the Government of Ontario and the Government of Canada have created the eco-ENERGY Retrofit for Homes. The program awards homeowners with rebates to a total of up to $5,000.*

Qualification Requirements

• Registration: First, register with Natural Resources Canada by clicking HERE or Call 1-800-O-CANADA (1-800-622-6232)
• Pre-retrofit evaluation: Hire a certified energy advisor licensed by NRCan. to perform a pre-retrofit energy evaluation from attic to the basement
• Retrofit with reciepts: Choose and install eligible system and equipments listed HERE and keep your receipts for three years.The more upgrades you do the more money you'll receive.
• Post Retrofit evaluation: Complete your renovation and obtain a post-retrofit evaluation no later than March 31,2012.

Do You Qualify? 

If you live in Ontario and own a single family home you are eligible for the program. A single family home is defined as a detached or semi-detached home or a low-rise, multi-unit residential building that is three stories or less and less than 600 square meters. Qualified homeowners will receive a rebate of 50% on their first Home Energy Audit, up to $150.

What the Home Energy Audit Program?

The Ontario Home Energy Savings Program is an energy conservation program from the Government of Ontario. A Home Energy Audit shows you how your home uses energy and where it is being leaked. It identifies improvements you can make to your home’s heating, cooling, hot water heating and other energy uses that could result in hundreds of dollars in energy savings each year. The Government of Ontario will pay 50% of your Home Energy Audit, up to $150.The audit will explain your home's energy use — attic to basement. A typical audit involves the following steps:

•  A walk-through assessment of your home’s insulation, heating and cooling systems and other energy usage
•  A “blower door” de-pressurization test to identify leaks and drafts
•  A personalized Energy Efficiency Evaluation Report

Many of the energy-saving upgrades identified by your Home Energy Audit will qualify you for rebates under the Home Energy Retrofit Program. These rebates from the Governments of Ontario and Canada can reimburse you up to $10,000* when you complete improvements identified by your audit.

What Mr. Heat Mechanical Would Do for You? 

As a qualified HVAC contractor Mr. Heat Mechanical Inc. has been a participant in the rebate program.  We provide you with all the necessary information and fill them out On-Line through our system and track them until you receive your cheque in about 4 to 6 weeks.We also arrange your first home audit too. 

The “WHY” behind the program: 

If your home is older than 10 years, it’s very likely leaking energy. A lot of energy and a lot of money. Right now your home may be leaking energy from any one or a combination of the following:

1.  Energy leaks around doors
2.  Poorly-fitted windows and sills
3. Energy-guzzling old furnaces
4. Poor attic insulation
5. Energy-wasting appliances
6. Energy-wasting old water heaters

An Ontario Home Energy Audit will find these energy leaks and give you a plan that can reduce your energy bills. On average, a homeowner can reduce their annual energy bill by up to 30% after a retrofit. You will receive a Home Energy Efficiency Evaluation Report that will outline how to make your home more energy efficient.

Cool Saving Rebates Program

Cool Savings Rebate Program Effective from January 1, 2011 to December 31, 2011. With 60% of your yearly electricity bill going toward heating and cooling your home, it makes good sense to look for ways to reduce your usage and your bills. That’s where the COOL SAVINGS REBATE comes in. If you’re looking to replace your old Central Air Conditioning system or your Furnace with an ENERGY STAR® qualified model, or Programmable Thermostat then attractive rebates are available to help you do just that. With this rebate program no Home Audit is necessary. As a qualified participant in Cool Saving Rebate Program we are able to qualify you for appropriate rebates available to you and fill out all the necessary form online and submit them on your behalf. You could also track your rebate status online.  Here is the list of rebates available to you through Cool Saving Program:

• Furnace : $250
• Central Air Conditioner : $ 400
• Thermostat : N/A

* Conditions apply. Grants amount may change without notice. Please read and consider carefully.